I continued my journey south into the heart of Peru and the many ruines of civilizations past. My next stop was Huanchaco. This small beach town lies in the arid coastal region of Peru and reminded me of the expansive desert of New Mexico with adobe houses scattered on the thirsty land, but with the added effect of ocean waves teasing the dryness of the desert with each crash. Known for it´s surf and proximity to some of Northern Peru´s most famous archeological sites, Huanchaco was the perfect place to soak up some sun and visit the past...
One of these communities, known as Chan Chan, is currently being restored. It is a massive village made of numerous citadels and adobe structures carved with great care and patience. Each citadel is a huge network of different passage ways, burial sites, gathering centers, and rooms for the inhabitants (as well as rooms only for treasures and offerings to the Gods). The walls of the citadel are massive and the depth and scale is impressive. The citadel housed the current king and his family and hosted large town gatherings, funerals and burials. When the king died, often his immediate family was killed in order to join him in the after life, and they were all buried together in the enormous tombs. After this ceremony took place construction would begin on a new citadel for the next king. As a result of this practice numerous citadels now exist in the city of Chan Chan. It is quite an enormous collection of pre-Inca ruines.
The other site of interest I visited was The Temple of the Moon (Huaca del Luna), with views of The Temple of the Sun (Huaca del Sol). Both temples and surrounding villages were built by the Mochi people prior to Inca civilizations in Peru. Similar to Chan Chan, the temples are large adobe and brick structures with symbols of great importance carved into the walls. However, unlike Chan Chan, this site is left largely unrestored and still stands dominantly on the landscape. One practice used by both the Mochi people and the Chimu people of Chan Chan was the offering of human flesh to the Gods. Massive killings and burials were practiced to impress the Gods and bring luck and good fortune to the people of these civilizations. It struck me how barbaric this practice would be if it were still considered normal today. After a day of touring both Chan Chan and the temples I returned to Huanchaco to cap the day with a gorgeous sunset.
After almost two weeks away from the mountains, I was beginning to feel nostalgic and hopped on the next bus to Huaraz. This unique mountain town is known around Peru and South America as a trekker/mountain climbing/outdoor haven for enthusiasts. It is flanked on one side by the famous Colrdillera Blanca and on the other by the Cordillera Negra. Massive peaks, many larger than 6,000 meters, pierce through the horizen, defying gravity. I decided the best views and greatest way to feel the energy of these monsters was to get as close as I could. The answer: 3 days and 52km of trekking through the valleys and mountains passes to get a taste of this wilderness. The weather proved to be tempermental and it wasnt until the third day that the clouds lifted and the staggering views appeared. Words fail to describe the power of such a place, but I enjoyed every second as my feet found a rhythm and my brain exploded with dopamine.
After almost a week in Huaraz, I was torn between it and the unknown places I had yet to explore. Curiousity triumphed and I bought my bus ticket out of this mountain haven and on to Lima (Peru´s capital and colonial center).
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