Day 1- Finally we arrived in Cocuy at 5:30 in the morning. The bus had rumbled and wove along a single lane dirt road for 9 hours, making it impossible to sleep. However, my spirits were immediately lifted after stepping off the bus and back in time. We were surrounded by old men in ponchos and cowboy hats, ladies in dresses, a few old trucks, and gorgeous mountains. The rest of the day was for exploration, preperation, and relaxation. After purchasing a park pass, buying food, and finding a park map, we were able to fit in a short 3 hour hike to a lookout point high above Cocuy before my exhaustion got the best of me and I had to settle into bed.
Day 2- Woke up at 5:30am to catch the local milk truck (primary mode of transportation into the mountains for travelers and locals alike) into the park for our first stop along the circuit. After arriving at our accomodation with a local family high in the paramo at 3,800 meters, we set off for a hike to 4 lagunas (topping out at 4,400 meters). The family, Los Herreros, turned out to be more than accommodating. They own a small house with a kitchen, a small room for a table, their bedroom (for 3 people), and a room just big enough to squeeze two double beds for their guests. They have no hot water, electricity, or insulation, but extra generosity, amazing food, and many blankets to make up for this lack of western comforts. We ate dinner by candlelight, the mother cooked us breakfast and served hot chocolate at 4am before our big hike, and we chatted with the daughter about life in the paramo and her future hopes and dreams.
Day 3- Woke up in the darkness of 4am for a delicious breakfast of eggs, bread, cheese, and hot chocolate. At 4:30, with headlights strapped to our heads, bellies full, and every piece of clothing I owned hugging my shivering body, we set off for Pulpito Del Diablo (The Devil´s Alter). Pulpito is a staggeringly immense rock formation that juts from the mountain at 5,200 meters above sea level. It took us 4 hours to reach the base of the glacier, beyond which it was impossible to advance without ice climbing gear, moments before the 10am clouds began to creep in from the valley floor. As an aside it is worth mentioning the clouds. Instead of coming from above, they would always slowly creep up from the valley below (usually beginning to reach our heights around 10am) and begin to circle and hover the mountain tops for the duration of the day. Thus, it was necessary to begin early and descend before visability was low. We returned to our cozy adobe 9 hours and 18km after we had left with aching legs and growling stomaches. After a very nice candlelit dinner I retreated to the warmth of the wool blankets and fell asleep.
Day 4- Woke up at 5:30am in order to hike 3km to catch the morning milk truck. Transportation was always centered around the milk truck and if we didn´t catch it when it passed (very early), we would be walking a long distance to our next destination. We hopped aboard and marvelled at the passing scenery as the truck inched towards La Esperanza, stopping every few minutes to collect the neighbors milk. We arrived in La Esperanza at 8:30 and had to hurry if we were going to get a hike in. This day proved to be much harder than I had expected and we eventually reached Lagunas Grande de la Sierra after 5 hours and 11km. The height of the lake was dizzying at 4,800 meters and because of the cloud cover visibility wasn´t great. We hurried down as the sun slowly fell towards the horizen. The day concluded with a quick dinner (which I am surprised I didn´t fall asleep into) and bed.
Day 5- Finally some sleep... because we had to wait for the milk truck (we were further on the route), we slept until 7am! Next stop Cabañas Kanwara. These quant little cabins rested at 4,000 meters and were the perfect jumping off point to climb Ritacuba Blanco. However, we didn´t arrive until 10:30 or so, much to late to hike that day, so I decided to take a much needed rest day. I spent time hanging with the sheep while I caught up on some reading and writting.
Day 6- Woke up at 6am to begin the highest of all climbs, Ritacuba Blanco. The tip of the peak, which is unattainable without ice climbing gear, sits at 5,300 meters (17,400 feet). I knew from the start we couldn´t summit but wanted to hike as high as I could without gear. The hike seemed fairly easy and we made it to the snow line at about 10am and back down by 1pm. This hike was one of the most beautiful hikes in the park and we were rewarded with sweeping 360 degree views. I am guessing we reached about 5,000 meters and I found this to be physically and mentally easier than prior days. My body and mind must have become accustomed to the difficulty of climbing at altitude, which left plenty of room to enjoy the scenery.
Day 7- After days of hiking through some of Colombia´s most pristine wilderness, it was time to leave. After a huge breakfast of fruit, soup, bread, cheese, eggs, jam, and a single saltine cracker we hopped aboard a local jeep and trundled back to Cocuy.It is hard to put into words the peacefulness and tranquility that exists here. While hiking through this paradise I felt a satisfaction and joy I haven´t felt in any other place. Horses, cows, sheep, and goats graze on surrounding hillsides. The only sound at times is the wind, a rushing river, or a glacial waterfall crashing over cliffs. Other times, nothing. No sound at all; pure silence. I cannot say enough about the generosity and warmth of the people here. My time in Colombia is winding down and I am not looking forward to leaving a place with so much spirit and heart.
Next stop Bogotá...
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