Northern Peru

It was fitting that the land the bus rumbled through in northern Peru was a vast desert sucked dry of water and nourishment. It is a befitting landscape for a country with a turbulent history, torn apart by war, drugs, conquests, corruption, and explotation. I stared blankly as we passed pueblos full of small adobe houses with only a tin roof held down by rocks supplying protection from the elements. Mototaxis, buses, and old cars zipped around the streets, crisscrossing intersections with the skill and awareness of veteran Nascar drivers. The chaos seemed on the verge of explosion, yet, to my amazement, no accidents occured and the system functioned. I was content to stare out the window and watch the world pass by. I had just safely crossed what is known as ¨the most dangerous border crossing in all of South America¨, and had done so with some nervousness but with little evidence that could validate the claim. I was expecting theives, corrupt border officials, crazy taxi drivers who would rob you of all possessions, and pickpocketing children. I received curtiosness, honesty, and not a thief or pickpocket in sight. Either way, my time in Ecuador had come to an end and another chapter, Peru, was opening in front of me.

I made brief stops in Piura and Chiclayo only to break up my journey. However, I was drawn to Chiclayo imparticular for its Mercado Modelo, also known as the witches market. It is known to have potions and elixers for numerous ailments and purposes. Drinks to bring luck, trinkets for love, crocodile teeth for increased wealth, and soap that can bring all three. I was unsure if the sellers really believed in their products or were only trying to make a buck. I couldnt get a straight answer because whenever I asked if these objects provided the intended result, I was told of course they do (stupid question right?). What would you say if you were selling your car and I asked you if it was a good car? Therefore, I will never know if I could have washed with special soap and become a millionare with all the love I needed and enough luck to last a life time.

My time here is flying by and I am starting to feel the pressure of the real world and life away from this adventure. I have 3 months left and still want to explore Peru, Bolivia, and Argentina, while considering my future, trying to land some volunteer positions, and studying more Spanish. Maybe if there was an elixer to slow time or offer me extra I would have purchased it. Oh well, there are always options and I am open to the possibility that life can offer the answer when you least expect it.

Vilcabamba

Vilcabamba was the next step on my trek south to Peru. It is a small town nestled between lush green mountains and is known ecologically as a buffer zone to the nearby Podocarpus National Park. The climate is temperate with slightly greater humidity than other places along the Andean chain. The valley here is termed ¨the valley of longevity¨ for the astronomically old age the average inhabitant reaches. This may be a result of the almost perfect climate, the relaxed pace of life, the beauty and tranquility that prolong health, or an assortment of various explanations. Whatever the case, I stepped off the bus and could immediately sense the laid back atmosphere.

My plan was to stay at Rumi Wilco, an ecolodge and nature reserve on the outskirts of Vilcabamba, and volunteer on various projects. The name Rumi Wilco comes from two Quichua words, ¨Rumi¨, which means rock and represents the rocky soul that exists here, and ¨Wilco¨, which is the sacred tree that grows in the region and has been used by natives for thousands of years for a multitude of reasons. I turned out to be the only volunteer at the time and enjoyed the pefect mixture of hard work and peaceful relaxation. I spent half the day working on projects around the reserve, which included weeding, building planter boxes, trail restoration work, and planting Wilcos as part of a greater reforestation project. The rest of the day I spent enjoying all the reserve has to offer.

I had a small adobe hut all to myself with a porch, bathroom, kitchen, and of course, a hammock. The reserve has a series of hiking trails, which explore the adjacent mountain, innumerable species of flora and fauna, clean, unfiltered drinking water, and many bathing spots along the river. It is apparant the owners put enormous effort into the success and sustainability of this project and I am happy I was a part of it. I only hope during my hard work and even harder relaxation that I absorbed some of the youthfulness that saturates the air of Vilcabamba.