Colombia!!

Baños was a great place, and although the volcano eluded me the four days I was in its shadow, I caught a glimpse of it´s smoking cone while I ascended north out of town. Supposedly (still uncomfirmed), the volcano erupted two days after I left. I recounted my luck of having stood at the refuge (at the base of the summit) just four days prior to the eruption with all the confidence in the world as I listened to the lava crackle and spit above me.

Since my arrival in South America I have toyed with the idea of going north to Colombia, an enchanting country with a dark side (which is mostly enhanced through the media). I had already began my travel south from Quito, but something kept pulling me back to Colombia. Whether it was the good reports from fellow travelers, my curiosity, or my proximity to the country, I decided to find out for my self what all the fuss was about and head north...

On my way to Colombia I made a quick pit stop in Quilotoa. I am unsure if one can even classify Quilotoa as a town, but it´s stunning beauty and enchantment draws visitors, and therefore it consists of some hostels and a few small tiendas. The majority of visitors are drawn by the large crater lake formed by the eruption of Quilotoa many years ago (the volcano now lies dormant). The views are majestic and the natural peace this place conjurs is unmatched. It was hard to leave, but my journey had to continue onward.

Quilotoa Lake at Sunrise

While journeying away from Quilotoa I could not help but notice the basic state of living on the hills and countryside surrounding the lake. I don´t like to use the word ¨poverty¨ because poverty implies a sense of desperation and unhappiness and from what I could tell these people had farms, animals, and although they worked very hard, always seemed to have a smile and presence of happiness. However, they did live in huts made of mud and grass from the earth and worked all day in the fields. I noticed that many age very quickly but retain a certain beauty only the land can supply. The women wear beautifully stitched dresses and traditional hats and to my amazement most wore high heals. As I stared out the window of my passing bus, in my security and comfort, I realized how different my existence is from these people. Not for better or worse, just different. After a full day and a half of traveling I was in Colombia and enjoying beautiful mountain scenery as our bus meandered north...

On my way north in Colombia I made a few short stops in Popayan and Cali. Popayan has the look and feel of a colonial town. It has whitewashed buildings and bustling streets. I was lucky and showed up the day of Popayan´s birthday celebration, which meant live music, crowded streets, great food, and fireworks. My first night in Colombia was a success! Next stop Cali... A city of 2.5 million residents, famous for salsa and plastic surgery. Unfortunately, the salsa clubs were at half speed during the week, but the plastic surgery was in full swing.

Finally, I made a longer stop in Salento, a small town in the coffee region. It was one of the most beautiful places on my journey and I filled my days with a perfect mixture of hiking and relaxing.

Coffee region

Just a normal afternoon

Feast for breakfast

Famous wax palms which only grow in this region

Although Colombia is a country that has been torn by constant turmoil and bloodshed, the natural beauty of the landscape and the people have endured and still offer the warmth of their presence and the strength of their hearts. They are as resilient as the coffee that grows in the region. I am in constant wonderment about the contrast between the beautiful landscapes and generous people of Colombia and the dark shadow of drugs and war.

New Year, Otavalo, and Baños

As I mentioned in my last post, I returned to Quito for the New Year celebration. Unfortunately, I was sick and stayed awake just long enough to ring in the New Year, then returned home to get some much needed sleep. However, I was able to enjoy the different traditions of the Quiteños before my early departure to my bed. One such tradition is the burning of muñecos. During the week preceding the last day of the year, the people of Ecuador are busy preparing wooden and paper dummies of presidents, politicians, and famous celebrities from around the world. On the 31st of December, there are parades, music, plenty of food, and everyone floods the streets to celebrate the close of the old year. At midnight, the muñecos are set on fire in the streets and bystanders can wander through town witnessing hundreds of small bonfires burning symbolic figures while fireworks explode in the sky. It is quite a site and it occured to me while I strolled the streets how illegal this practice would be in the US. The other tradition of interest, but with less rationality, is what I term the transexual tradition. Every nuevo año men dress up as women and prevent passing cars from crossing their path unless the driver pays a small fee. I don't understand the reasioning behind this, but everyone seems to go along with the tradition and quietly pays the fee as they pass.



On the first of January I headed to Otavalo, a small market driven town 2 hours north of Quito, to enjoy the weekend in the beautiful northern mountains of Ecuador. Every Saturday in Otavalo hundreds of vendors flood into town to sell their goods to locals and foreigners in one of the biggest markets in Ecuador. You can buy anything from wool sweaters made from Alpaca to instruments, blankets, fruit, and numerous trinkets. It is quite a spectacle and entertaining if only to stroll the aisles and make small talk with the vendors. After experiencing the market, we were able to hire a taxi for the 45 minute journey to a nearby alpine lake called Laguno Mojando. From there, I summited a peak called Fuya Fuya, which is just under 14K feet. I felt it took much less effort than a 14K foot mountain normally would in Colorado, which is probably due to my acclimitization in Quito. The area was gorgeous and a perfect way for me to ring in the New Year in South America!



Now I am in Baños, another mountain town known for its outdoor sports and thermal baths (from the active volcano of Tungarahua). My first day I rented a mountain bike for $5 for the whole day and rode downhill for 20 kilometers to view 5 different waterfalls. It was an amazing trip and we stopped off in a small town for a wonderful lunch of freshly caught trout and rice. Yesterday we rented bikes again, hired a truck to drive us up to the base of Tungarahua, and hiked 4 hours to the refuge at 3,800 meters (the refuge lies at the base of the active volcano of Tungarahua). Unfortunately, it was raining and cloudy the whole time so we could not see the lava spewing from the top, but we could hear the consistent rumble of volcanic activity. It was a surreal experience, especially being able to hear the sound so close. After our descent, we rode our bikes down a steep dirt track back to Baños. It has been raining for three days, but I have still managed to do some great hikes and activities here. On to the next place!

Some Pictures from the Jungle

These are just a few of the pictures from the Jungle. The internet connection is slow, and thus the minimal amount of pictures, but I will try to post more soon.